Grenache with Roger Jones

This may not be on everyone’s shopping list, but, in recent years, the Grenache grape has grown in momentum and stature. At the very top, from the Rhône in France, there is Chateau Rayas at £2,000 a bottle, to an Australian wine at under £10.

There cannot be many grape varieties that have seen such a monumental change in their prosperity than Grenache, especially from Australia. Grenache was originally used in Australia for their fortified wines; after the end of World War II vineyards were planted in South Australia with Grenache and given to returning soldiers at hugely discounted prices. For many years these went into bulk and homemade wines, with the vineyards now highly sought after due to their age and quality.

Grenache is popular in the Rhône, especially with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, although this wine can include Mourvèdre and Syrah. The flavours from a classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape have a raspberry and plummy feel to begin with, then they will evolve in your mouth, giving savoury and herby notes. Wine buffs call these herb notes garrigue, reflecting the local scrubland around the vines, full of sage, rosemary and lavender. On the finish there is a sweet strawberry freshness.

Spain is another hotbed of Grenache, known there as Garnacha and made famous by some superstars from Priorat. This success prompted some of Spain’s younger, more modern winemakers to see that Garnacha had potential all over the country. Consequently you will find winemakers in places like Aragón in the north, and in central Spain around Madrid. Garnacha is also often used in blends to give their red wines a fresh uplift.

The style of Garnacha from Spain is fruitier, often with a touch more alcohol – think raspberry and strawberries with a dusting of white pepper; with older, more expensive wines think plummy, rich ripe figs.

California also has Grenache on an upward spiral but check the percentage as they can hit 15%, although anything below 13.5% will be pretty pleasant on the head.

Summer Road Old Vine Grenache 2022

South Australia | £7.49

A bargain here from Waitrose. Fresh bright strawberry notes, hints of vanilla spice, juicy and lively – an excellent introduction to the Grenache grape.

Care, Garnacha Nativa 2020

Carinena, Spain | £11.95

Textured with a minty chocolate note, creamy strawberry mid-palate and a full mouth feel. Great Spanish style.

Willunga 100, 2021 Smart Vineyard Clarendon Grenache

McLaren Vale, Australia | £28

Loganberries, delicate blackberries, gentle perfume, spiced fruity and velvety. This is fresh, clean and focused – a glorious mouth feel, young and fresh, but plenty of character, with an impressive cool feel on the end. This winery makes a range of Grenache wines, with the cheapest starting at £12.50 a bottle.

The Language of Yes Grenache 2020

Santa Maria, California | £30

Big, aromatic, perfumed style, clean on the palate, pomegranate, hint of ice cream, cool and fresh with a silky luxurious feel. Restrained on the alcohol, this is a lovely wine, showing great class.

Annexus Grenache, John Duval 2022

Eden Valley, Barossa, Australia | £40

I first met John Duval when he was holding the keys to Penfolds Grange, Australia’s foremost wine, and have followed the journey to his own label.

This 95% Grenache (with a small amount of Shiraz and Mataro) is sourced from vines planted 165 years ago, at the Stonegarden Vineyard, just outside Springton in the Eden Valley.

This is plush with dark but precise notes, voluptuous and restrained in the same mouthful – rich spices, vibrant aromatics, focused with a racy acidity. This is complex and complete, with a beautiful perfume. Quite exceptional.

Yangarra High Sands Grenache 2019

Blewitt Springs, McLaren Vale, Australia | £150

This vineyard was planted in 1946. Yangarra has championed Grenache for some time and this wine shows real class, albeit it at £150 a bottle. This has sensitivity throughout, seamless with bright freshness balanced with spices and savoury notes. Cranberry and cherries, with some herbaceous notes, as the wine opens up on the palate with a wonderful mouth feel. This really does showcase how good Grenache can be.

BBQ food to pair with Grenache

Tandoori chicken

The simplest way to make a great Tandoori chicken is to blend a jar of lime pickle with equal amounts of Greek yoghurt and coat the whole chicken with the mixture. Roast in the barbecue until golden in colour and allow plenty of time to rest before serving.

Ox tongue

Possibly the cheapest, most tender, flavoursome piece of meat you will find. Firstly, precook the whole tongue, ideally in a pressure cooker. When it is cooked, allow to cool down in the liquid; do not skin it until its chilled, otherwise it will form another skin. Place on a large skewer or rotisserie fork, and coat in spices of your choice, from a masala mix to Thai spices. Wrapping it in some bacon will give it extra moisture, then simply barbecue until hot.

Duck heart skewers

Succulent, meaty and sweet, with smoked paprika.

Whole grilled sea bream

A great winter dish, spiced up with Arabic ground spices.





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